A few more tips for those that are new to splicing on the sock machine.
You may have noticed in yesterday's photos that I stop my yarn carrier, to begin my splice, just at the left yellow hash mark (the margin for heel/toe decreases).
When I'm doing the last row before the splice I slow down my cranking and stop when the last needle before the yellow mark is down in the slot and JUST BEFORE the first needle after the yellow mark is down.
When I cut my old yarn and fold it back, I make the folding point of reference 3 needles BEFORE the RIGHT HAND yellow mark. That is to say, I lead the yarn forward, pinch it at the 3rd needle before the mark and fold the tail backwards from there.
This is on the 54 cylinder and it may vary a little on other sizes.
By using these reference points, the ACTUAL change point where the old yarn and new yarn cross is mid-way between the two yellow marks, and so these little transitions will all appear in a line going down the centre of the back of the sock.
So - even though I am stopping my yarn carrier at the yellow hash mark, my actual crossover is 5 or 6 stitches further to the right.
It is NOT a good idea, IMHO, to splice yarns such that the crossover happens AT the yellow mark - even when doing a colour change for heel and toe only - there is too much going on at those marks when you do decreases and increase for heels and toes. For heels and toes I still splice so that the crossover is centre-back.
A Little Tug
When you look at the finished sock with slices in it from the good side, you will see that the final doubled stitch of the new yarn in each change is a little loose.
That's because you loosen the tension a bit when you let go of the tail during the final stitch.
A little tug on the tails (on the wrong side) snugs these up very nicely. Personally, I wash the sock first, then after blocking I give the tails a gentle tug and trim them to about 3/4".
And finally to the post office:
Jesse and I finally made it to town for a pick up at the post office.